As the saying goes, “hair is a person’s second face”. A hairstyle change could present a brand new image, hence many people always have a few hair styling products at home to cater for different hairdos for different occasions. The Consumer Council tested 50 models of hair styling products on the market in accordance with requirements of the Mainland’s “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”, the European Union’s (EU) “Cosmetics Regulation” and Hong Kong’s “Air Pollution Control (Volatile Organic Compounds) Regulation”, and detected harmful substances in over 90% of the tested models, with the concentration of some exceeding limits stipulated by the EU, Mainland, or Hong Kong regulations. For example, 4 models (3 hair waxes and 1 hair clay) contained the fragrance allergen butylphenyl methylpropional (BMHCA), which has been banned in the EU due to its reproductive toxicity; 3 hair wax models contained the EU-banned preservative methylisothiazolinone (MIT); the concentration of the preservative paraben in 1 hair wax model exceeded the limit of both Mainland and EU regulations; and the volatile organic compounds (VOC) concentration of 1 hair styling spray was found to be 77%, exceeding the Hong Kong regulatory limit (not higher than 55%). Several models were also found to contain fragrance allergens such as linalool and limonene over EU’s trigger limit for mandatory labelling of such ingredients but were not labelled on the packaging. Overall, among the 5 types of hair styling products, hair wax models were found to contain the highest number of fragrance allergen and preservative prohibited by the EU, among which 7 were detected with prohibited or restricted preservatives, and 3 were even found to contain a prohibited fragrance allergen, which is far from satisfactory. The Council urges manufacturers to improve the safety of their products proactively so that consumers can use them with peace of mind.
The Council tested 50 models of hair styling products purchased from different retailers, with the price ranging from $30 to $650. These models included 14 aerosol hair sprays (finishing sprays), 9 non-aerosol hair sprays/styling conditioning sprays, 10 finishing gels/foams/hair creams, 10 hair waxes, and 7 hair clays. Tests were conducted according to the product type and main ingredients, checking for the presence of relevant harmful substances, including fragrance allergens, the pollutant polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), preservatives, heavy metals, and VOC.
Nearly 90% Detected with Fragrance Allergens
4 Even Contained EU-banned Fragrance
Many hair styling products are scented to make the hair smell good after application or to mask the odour of some ingredients. However, fragrance is one of the common causes of allergic contact dermatitis. EU Cosmetics Regulation classifies 4 fragrance allergens as prohibited substances which shall not be applied in cosmetics and skincare products.
4 tested models (3 hair waxes and 1 hair clay) were detected with the EU-banned fragrance allergen BMHCA at concentrations between 0.0018% and 0.014%. BMHCA is classified as Group 1B reproductive toxicant, which affects the sexual function and fertility in experiments on adult animals, and also causes toxicity to the developmental system of offsprings. Some reports also pointed out that BMHCA may also be an endocrine disruptor which may induce health problems.
Overall, nearly 90% of the models (44) were detected with 1 to 8 fragrance allergens, among which 9 models (3 aerosol type hair sprays, 1 non-aerosol type hair spray, 2 finishing gels, 2 hair waxes, and 1 hair clay) contained 5 or more fragrance allergens, and the total concentration of fragrance allergens contained in 3 other models (2 styling conditioning sprays and 1 hair wax) exceeded 0.5%, which is a cause for concern. In addition, linalool and limonene were detected in many models. 30 models were found to contain linalool at levels from 0.0011% to 0.093%, while 22 models were found to contain limonene at levels from 0.0017% to 0.8%, all exceeding EU’s upper limit for mandatory labelling of such fragrance allergens (for leave-on products: 0.001%). However, some of the tested models were not labelled with these ingredients and manufacturers are advised to improve.
When using spray-type hair styling products, the liquid will turn into droplets during use, largely increasing the chance of inhalation. Individuals with sensitive airways or asthma may suffer from allergy or discomfort due to inhalation of fragrance allergens. The Council reminds consumers to maintain good ventilation when using hair sprays to avoid inhaling large quantities of aerosol.
3 Models Found with EU-prohibited Preservative MIT
May Pose Risk of Serious Allergy
The preservative MIT is a Category 1A skin irritant. As overseas research reports suggest up to 10% of the population is likely to have more severe skin allergic reactions to MIT, it is therefore banned from leave-on products as stipulated in the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Test results showed that 3 hair wax models contained MIT at levels from 0.0015% to 0.0095%, which failed to comply with EU requirements (should not be used in leave-on products) but were within the limits of Mainland requirements (not more than 0.01%).
9 models (3 finishing gels and 6 hair waxes) were detected with another type of preservative, paraben, which is widely used due to its high preservative efficacy and low cost. The concentration of propylparaben detected in 1 model was 0.16%, which exceeded both Mainland and EU limits (not more than 0.14%). Overseas studies have suggested that some parabens are suspected xenoestrogens, which may affect the reproductive system with prolonged exposure.
All Finishing Sprays Found with VOC
1 Exceeded the Hong Kong Legal Limit
Many people use hair sprays to hold their hairdos longer. Aerosol type hair sprays often contain VOC such as ethanol and dimethyl ether, which act as a solvent and propellant, posing potential health risks and pollution problems that should not be overlooked. When using aerosol type hair spray, VOC will be released into the air and would worsen indoor air quality. Inhalation of high concentrations of VOC during use could cause discomfort in the eyes, nose, and throat, and may even result in headaches, dizziness, and affect vision. Some VOC have been classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as probable human carcinogens or probable animal carcinogens.
In accordance with test method recommended by the California Air Resources Board (CARB), 14 aerosol hair spray models were tested for VOC content. Results showed that the VOC concentration ranged from 14% to 77%, of which the model with the highest concentration (77%) exceeded the maximum permissible limit (55%) under the Air Pollution Control (Volatile Organic Compounds) Regulation in Hong Kong, while that of 2 other models reached the maximum tolerable limit. The relevant information has been forwarded to the Environmental Protection Department for follow-up. Another 5 products with VOC content above 50%, though not exceeding the relevant requirement, were also on the higher end. However, in view of the fact that CARB has lowered the VOC content limit for hairstyling sprays from 55% to 50% since 1 January last year in a bid to tackle air pollution, the Council urges manufacturers to follow more stringent requirement and further reducing the VOC content in their products.
Incomplete Labelling Information in Over Half the Models
Enhanced Product Information Transparency Urged
The labelling information of the models was also reviewed and it was found that the majority of the models lacked important information, which may prevent consumers from obtaining comprehensive information in choosing a product, and the situation needs to be improved. Nearly 40% (19 models) did not provide a list of ingredients in Chinese or English, which may increase the risk of skin allergy as consumers may not be aware of the presence of allergens. 17 models provided no expiry date information, and 1 aerosol hair spray did not have a warning on the packaging in either Chinese or English stating “flammable or avoid high temperatures”. The Council urges relevant suppliers to improve the labelling of their products to protect consumers’ health and enhance information transparency.
Many consumers may use hair styling products on a daily basis for a desired hairdo. It is advisable to check product ingredients, usage, and labelling information before purchase. Individuals with a history of eczema or sensitive skin should avoid products containing fragrance allergens or allergenic preservatives to minimise the risk of allergic reactions. Consumers may refer to the following tips when using hair styling products:
- Avoid applying styling products on the scalp and wash hands as soon as possible after use to minimise the risk of allergic reactions;
- Individuals with sensitive airways or asthma may suffer from allergies or discomfort due to inhalation of fragrance allergens in hair sprays or aerosol products, thus should maintain good ventilation when using;
- Styling or combing wet hair, or combing after using a “strong hold” styling product, may cause hair breakage or even hair loss. It is advisable to minimise the use of such products or allow hair to dry partially before combing or styling;
- Shampoo daily after using hair styling products. When using “strong hold” styling products (e.g. hair sprays and finishing gels), use a shampoo with a strong cleansing effect (e.g. for oily hair), or lather twice to thoroughly rinse off the styling product;
- Accumulation of residual substances over time may block pores. If sebum in the pores on the scalp is blocked and cannot be discharged, it may lead to bacterial folliculitis, resulting in hair loss due to scabbing; if the scalp is sensitive to certain styling products, it may also lead to allergic contact dermatitis, which in serious cases can cause hair loss or scalp folliculitis (i.e. head sores), and if not handled properly will increase the risk of scarring and hair loss.
Download the article (Chinese only): https://ccchoice.org/573-hairstyling
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