Natural and translucent makeup helps achieve a radiant and flawless look, making makeup base and primers an essential first step in many people’s makeup routines. These products not only smooth fine lines and pores, but also help makeup last longer. In a survey on 37 models of makeup base and primers, the Consumer Council reviewed the ingredient list shown on the product label and information verified by traders. Among the 20 models with sun protection claims, 85% (17 models) stated containing UV filters that are potential endocrine disruptors, including ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), homosalate, as well as octocrylene, which may also cause photoallergic reactions in some individuals. Furthermore, 15 models claimed to contain butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), an antioxidant that improves the stability of cosmetics but also raises potential endocrine-disrupting concerns. Apart from concerns about sunscreen agents, 13 models were shown to contain cyclosiloxane compounds, which are highly persistent and bioaccumulative, posing risks of environmental pollution. Additionally, 17 models contained alcohol, some with possibly higher alcohol content, which may not be suitable for frequent use by individuals with dry skin. Over 60% (24 models) contained fragrance and/or fragrance allergens, which could pose allergy risks. Overall, only 2 out of 37 models did not list any of the concerning ingredients mentioned above, making it challenging for consumers to avoid potential endocrine disruptors, fragrance, or fragrance allergens when choosing makeup bases and primers. The Council urges relevant authorities to jointly develop a priority list of potential endocrine disruptors to enhance consumers’ safety awareness. Meanwhile, manufacturers are called on to review product formulations in due course to ensure safety and efficacy to protect consumers’ health.
The Council purchased 37 models of makeup base and primers from retailers, with prices ranging from $108 to $995 per product. Based on a usage amount of 0.51g (or ml) per each use, the daily cost for use ranged from $1.8 to $14.4, a 7-fold difference. 20 models claimed to provide SPF15 to SPF50+ sun protection. The survey reviewed the ingredient lists on the labels or as verified by traders. Generally speaking, ingredients listed earlier in the formulation are present in higher concentrations.
85% Models with Sun Protection Claims Contained Potential Endocrine Disruptors
The survey examined 3 potential endocrine-disrupting UV filters, namely EHMC, homosalate, and octocrylene.
Among the models with sun protection claims, 15 stated containing EHMC whose major function is for absorbing UVB radiation, with 80% of these models (12 models) having listed it among the top 6 ingredients. EHMC is currently permitted for use in cosmetics in the Mainland, European Union (EU), and United States, with maximum allowable concentrations ranging from 7.5% to 10%. However, a preliminary version of opinion released by the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) suggests that EHMC is likely an endocrine disruptor, with both in vitro and in vivo studies demonstrating clear oestrogenic activity and weak anti-androgenic activity. In addition, available evidence is insufficient to exclude its genotoxicity.
Among all models, 3 contained another type of UV filter known as homosalate. Although regulations in various jurisdictions permit its use at maximum concentrations of 7.34% to 15%, some studies have indicated that homosalate may have endocrine effects.
Octocrylene, another UV filter which may have endocrine effects, is considered safe at concentrations up to 10% (except propellant spray). 3 surveyed models were found to contain this ingredient. It is worth noting that individuals who have experienced photoallergic reactions to non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, such as ketoprofen, may also develop the same adverse reaction to octocrylene and should avoid products containing it.
Only 3 of the 20 sun protection models did not contain these concerning UV filters in this survey, indicating their widespread use in cosmetic products with sun protection claims. Research by the Danish Consumer Council THINK Chemicals suggested that endocrine-disrupting substances can affect hormone levels in various pathways, may affect sex hormones, potentially impair fertility, cause genital malformation in newborns, provoke premature puberty, and increase the risk of breast or testicular cancers. Vulnerable groups, including pregnant women, breastfeeding individuals, children, and adolescents should minimise exposure to these substances.
Preservatives and Antioxidants Pose Potential Risks
Alcohol / Fragrances May Cause Skin Irritation or Allergic Reaction
Many cosmetics and skincare products contain preservatives and antioxidants to enhance product stability, but these ingredients may also pose risks. 6 surveyed models stated containing the preservative chlorphenesin. Although it is neither a sensitiser nor a dermal irritant, there was a case report of facial eczema breakout after using a foundation containing this ingredient. In another case report, an individual experienced continuous eczema on the face after applying a face cream containing chlorphenesin, and the eczema eventually spread to the neck, upper chest and upper arm areas.
Furthermore, 15 models revealed on their ingredients list the presence of BHT, an antioxidant that helps to improve the stability of cosmetic products. However, BHT also has potential endocrine-disrupting properties, and the SCCS recommended a maximum concentration of 0.8% for safety. Animal studies suggest that BHT could potentially trigger skin and eye irritation. For safety’s sake, consumers should carefully monitor for redness or itching around the eyes and lips after application, and discontinue use immediately if reactions occur.
Consumers should also be aware that prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of alcohol could cause dryness or irritation, particularly for individuals with dry skin. 17 models were stated to contain ethanol, alcohol, alcohol denat., or isopropanol, with 2 models listing these ingredients second in the ingredient lists.
Additionally, 21 models claimed to contain fragrance, 16 with various types of fragrance allergens, and 13 having both; 4 models listed 5 to 7 types of fragrance allergens. Individuals prone to allergic reactions towards fragrances should avoid using relevant products.
13 Models Claimed to Contain Cyclosiloxane Compounds Which May Pollute the Environment
Aside from UV filters, makeup base and primers may also contain other ingredients of concern, such as cyclosiloxane compounds which act as emollient, humectant, or solvent. An overseas study has reported that the use of cyclopentasiloxane (D5) in primers could be at concentrations of up to 26%. Both D5 and cyclohexasiloxane (D6) are highly persistent and bioaccumulative, and their wide-dispersive uses in cosmetic products constitute the major sources of pollution when released into the environment. The EU will regulate the concentrations of D5 and D6 in leave-on cosmetics, which should not be equal to or greater than 0.1% effective from June 2027. The Council’s survey found 12 models contained D5 while 6 contained D6, and 5 contained both. 10 models even listed these ingredients among the top 3, indicating their predominance in the formulations.
7 Japanese and Korean Products Lacked Chinese or English Ingredient Lists
Urgent Improvement Needed
As consumers rely on reading the labels to identify if products contain ingredients of concern, labelling information must be sufficiently detailed. 7 models originating from Japan or Korea lacked an ingredient list in Chinese or English, requiring urgent improvement. 5 models were not labelled with an expiry date, while most others specified a usage period of 6 to 24 months after opening. Consumers should also pay attention to the recommended usage amount, but some models missed this information. The Council reminds traders of their responsibility to provide relevant information for consumer reference, especially for products with sun protection claims.
Only 2 out of the 37 surveyed models did not state any ingredients of concern, making it difficult for consumers to avoid exposure to potential endocrine disruptors, especially for products with sun protection claims which have even fewer choices. Given the near-daily use of sunscreen products, consumers should be extra cautious. The Council anticipates collaboration between organisations focused on consumer safety and health agencies to develop a priority list of potential endocrine disruptors, increasing consumer awareness through education and publicity. At the same time, traders are called upon to improve formulations to ensure product safety and efficacy while enhancing the transparency of ingredient information.
Tips for choosing and using makeup base and primers:
- Test the product on a coarser area of the hand to observe its effect on concealing fine lines and durability, and apply it on the inner wrist to check for adverse reactions such as itching or redness;
- Women preparing for pregnancy, pregnant, or breastfeeding individuals should avoid products containing potential endocrine disruptors. Instead of pursuing cosmetic products with diverse claims, they are recommended to choose products with simple formulations. Furthermore, adolescents should avoid developing makeup habits too early;
- Makeup base and primers with sun protection should be applied at least 15 minutes before going outdoors to ensure UV filters take effect;
- Even if the makeup base feels light and refreshing, appropriate makeup removers should be used to properly cleanse the skin;
- Choose products with physical UV filters such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which provide more comprehensive broad-spectrum protection.
Download the article (Chinese only): https://ccchoice.org/581-primers
Consumer Council reserves all its right (including copyright) in respect of CHOICE magazine and Online CHOICE.