Could light-based hair removal procedure deliver the "painless" and "permanent" effect as claimed in the advertisements? Consumers who desire to undergo such procedures or services should beware of potential risks like burns and even permanent scars in case of procedural irregularities.
Since the establishment of an information exchange mechanism between the Department of Health and the Consumer Council, since October 2012, by far the Council has received 103 complaint cases concerning adverse events after cosmetic procedures. Of these, 61 cases are related to services using energy-emitting devices, majority of them are about procedures conducted with the use of laser and intense pulsed light ("IPL") devices.
Claims made in advertisements or a sale pitch may not reveal all the facts and realities of cosmetic procedures. Consumers are advised to look carefully into the process and associated risks when considering light-based hair removal services. Light-based hair removal refers to the process of removing unwanted body hair by means of controlled exposure to pulses of laser or IPL beam over the skin. When melanin in the follicle of growing hair absorbs this light, it heats up and causes damage to the hair follicle, resulting in shedding of body hair.
Light-based hair removal can only treat hairs in growing stage (anagen), but not those failing (catagen) or resting (telogen). Body hair grows in different cycles, several sessions of laser or IPL procedures are therefore required before a thorough removal of unwanted body hair growing in a specific area.
Beauty parlours apply different laser hair removal devices in dermatologic procedures, consumers should understand their own needs before making a choice. Common laser hair removal devices in the marketplace are Alexandrite, Diode and Nd:YAG laser systems. The first two are more suitable for consumers with lighter skin, while the latter suits individuals or certain body parts with darker skin.
IPL hair removal procedure shares similar principle as laser. IPL encompasses a broader range of wavelengths, so greater control of the range of wavelengths and energy intensity of IPL devices is required. Given the wavelengths are suitable, a higher intensity of IPL energy brings better effect in hair removal, but also higher risks of burns.
Consumers should be mindful of reactions both during and after light-based hair removal procedures, such as discomfort and pain. Side-effects like erythema and edema may also occur in treated area, which normally are transient. There might also be incidence of hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation that can last for several months in normal circumstances. Unless severe skin burns occurs, chances of permanent alternation in skin pigmentation are rare.
However, improper operation of light-based hair removal or excessive frequency in treatment can cause severe adverse reactions such as epidermal damage, burns, blisters, erosions, crusts or even permanent scars.
Light-based hair removal procedures are commonly advertised as "painless" and with "permanent" in effect, but we don't know if it is as good as its claim. For certain is, discomfort or even pain is inevitable when treated skin is exposed to beams of laser or IPL. Generally speaking, higher energy intensity, or coarser and denser body hair may intensify discomfort.
Whether unwanted body hair can be "removed permanently" depends on the amount of melanin in hair follicles as well as the wavelengths and the level of energy intensity a devise can release and the extent follicles are destroyed after exposure. If after completion of all procedures, it takes longer time for a hair to regrow as compared with the regular growth cycle of hair, which varies from four to twelve months, it can be deemed that the long-term effect of hair reduction has achieved.
No light-based hair removal procedure can lead to permanent elimination of all hair although the amount of hair in the treated parts can be reduced. In general, it is more reasonable to expect a reduction of 80% of body hair following a series of laser procedures. More sessions of IPL procedures would be needed as compared to laser procedures for achieving the same effect. A beauty parlour that uses IPL device opined that armpit hair removal takes about two years to complete.
Consumers should note that light-based hair removal does not work equally well for everyone, melanin in hair follicle of lighter-coloured or white body hair is insufficient to absorb energy effectively thereby affecting the result. Individuals with darker skin color might risk excessive exposure of light energy resulting in burns, as they have higher amounts of epidermal melanin.
Following is a list of tips for consumers:
- Inquire about the professional qualification of device operators before undergoing a light-based procedure.
- Conduct a trial test on a small and inconspicuous area of the skin intended to be treated before commencement of the procedure.
- Inform device operator immediately if burning sensation is felt in the course of the procedure.
- Avoid sun-bathing between sessions of the light-based hair removal procedures.
Recommendations for practitioners in the beauty industry:
- Explain clearly to consumers about the devices to be used, the procedural details, potential risks and limitations before commencement of any procedure.
- Be proactive and show to consumers the qualification certification of the device operators.
- Keep a detailed record about the procedures, including work performed in each session, the identity of the device operators, device parameters used, areas treated, and for how long, and any adverse reaction. This provides reference to the next operator to perform evaluation to minimize chances of injury to the consumers.
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